The first row sets every row after it
A crooked first row shows up as tapered gaps at the far wall and broken locks mid-room. Take twenty extra minutes here — chalk line, spacers, and a dry fit — before you commit the second row.
Underlay should already be down and taped. Confirm expansion gap size on your carton (often 1/4–3/8 inch / 6–10 mm).
Which wall to start against
If walls are out of square, snap a chalk line parallel to the starting wall and align the first row to the line — not the drywall. Trim the last row later to absorb the error.
- Longest wall or the wall most visible from the main doorway
- Run planks parallel to the main light from windows when possible
- Match plank direction to adjacent rooms for continuous flow
- Avoid starting on the most out-of-square wall without a chalk line
Tongue, groove, and spacers
Pull the first row tight as you go — a loose start multiplies. Use the tapping block lightly on the groove side per the install sheet.
- Manufacturer diagrams win — usually tongue faces the wall or groove faces the room
- Place spacers every 2–3 feet along the starting wall and at ends
- Dry-fit 3–4 planks; check the face edge with a straightedge or laser
- Cut the last plank of row 1 to leave the expansion gap at the end wall
- Save the cut-off if it is longer than the minimum stagger for row 2
Before you start row two
Measure from the first-row face to the opposite wall in a few places. If the last row would be under ~2–3 inches wide, rip a few inches off the first row so the last row stays a workable width.
Next: stagger pattern for laminate planks, then keep going with the beginner install guide. Still short on material? Recheck the laminate calculator.